Thanks Roy. Good questions.
Since I grew up without clutch switches and side stand switches I completely bypassed and removed the switches. Not everyone feels comfortable doing so but in all my years of riding I think I may have rode off with my kickstand down once. Same goes for the clutch switch, I’ve never had a negative experience without the clutch switch. My gear indicator still works after bypassing and running a ground directly to the starter relay solenoid.
Hopefully the marked up picture below will help understand how I hooked the new starter relay. I cut the connectors on the old starter relay as close to the relay as possible so I could use the original connectors and not cut into the bikes main wiring. This way I can always go back to the OEM relay if need be.
Wire description
GR - Ground wire for relay solenoid
SW - starter switch (brown wire with green stripe from OEM relay)
FB - Power to OEM fuse block (smaller red wire from OEM relay
B - Power from battery (upgraded to AWG 8 gauge wire)
M - Starter motor power (upgraded to AWG 8 gauge wire)
SF - Spare fuse (included with starter relay)
F - Accessory fuse (included with starter relay)
Acc - Fused accessory feeds (these two tabs are tied together internally)
This is a nice feature to add a couple of accessories to the bike.
Also not shown is I ran a new AWG 8 gauge ground wire to the starter motor replacing the OEM wire.
Note I originally ran the fuse block power wire thru the new relay and upped the fuse to 25 amps to protect the fuse block but I figured it is just redundant protection for the fuse block and I think the best way is to do it like I show in the drawing below.
Let me know if anything is confusing to you. I struggle at times being clear and skipping important details.