Stratos Performance air filter and inlet plate.

fog rider

Finally made it
Location
Alberta
The filter is oiled. I'm not really looking for performance gains, I just like oiled cotton filters. I think they do a better job of filtering and save money in the long run.
 

Morgan60

Well travelled
Location
NW USA
I‘ve been running one of these filters for about two months now with S&S race only pipes on my RE 650 GT. They are of good quality and make a nice combination with the pipes. The bike runs and sounds really beautiful. So much so my buddy ordered the same combination for his bike after taking my bike out for a spin.
 

fog rider

Finally made it
Location
Alberta
My only issue so far was the cheesy machine screws on the triple clamps. The hex recesses were very shallow and the screws were somewhat soft. I replaced them with better quality screws when I adjusted my steering head bearings. Other than that, I see no issues.

Changed the oil and filter yesterday. RE recommends full synthetic motor oil.

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Morgan60

Well travelled
Location
NW USA
I had no issues with the fashioners as you don’t need to put much pressure on them. I did of course use some blue loctite on them.
 

fog rider

Finally made it
Location
Alberta
2 of the fasteners were definitely over-torqued at the factory. I had to use penetrating oil, a heat gun, and a breaker bar to remove them. There's a video on Youtube where a fellow broke two of the fasteners during removal. The service manual makes no mention of using blue loctite on the pinch bolts. The threads were clean and dry on disassembly. IMHO, RE should investigate the assembly line procedure on these fasteners.
 

Roy Gavin

Well travelled
Mine were over torqued from the factory, but there is another potential problem with these fasteners and that is the possibility of moisture intrusion at the split in the clamp leading to corrosion on the threads.
Some Jap bike manufacturers recommend some form of thread sealer on these fastners, and also on any through bolt like caliper bolts where there is the prospect of moisture intrusion from the far end.
Some suggest a non hardening gasket compound, or a the lowest strength locking compound, but remember that torque values are given for clean and dry threads UON , so if you use antisieze or grease the torque values should be reduced 15/25%.
Loctite normally does not need any reduction, don't know about the other brands---!
 

Morgan60

Well travelled
Location
NW USA
The service manual makes no mention of using blue loctite on the pinch bolts.
On a motorcycle loctite is your friend.😃 I also used just a little line of sticky grease around the back of the flange on the air filter where it comes in contact with the bike to make sure one get’s a good air seal.
 
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fog rider

Finally made it
Location
Alberta
Mine were over torqued from the factory, but there is another potential problem with these fasteners and that is the possibility of moisture intrusion at the split in the clamp leading to corrosion on the threads.
Some Jap bike manufacturers recommend some form of thread sealer on these fastners, and also on any through bolt like caliper bolts where there is the prospect of moisture intrusion from the far end.
Some suggest a non hardening gasket compound, or a the lowest strength locking compound, but remember that torque values are given for clean and dry threads UON , so if you use antisieze or grease the torque values should be reduced 15/25%.
Loctite normally does not need any reduction, don't know about the other brands---!
I agree. Moisture ingress into pinch screw threads can be a problem. Most thread sealants/lubricants will cause thread distortion at final torque, unless the final torque value is reduced. But this reduces the "pinch" effect in the end.....

My personal philosophy: follow what the manufacturer suggests when it comes to thread sealants/lubricants. "Look it up, don't f#@k it up" is my motto.

That being said, the pinch screw issue is a minor problem on an otherwise solid bike. I choose to swap mine out with higher grade screws, with deeper hex recesses.

Today's project: Installing factory fork gators....

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Roy Gavin

Well travelled
Best fastener 101 I ever saw was in the early Honda Common Service Manual.
The complete manual was excellent, probably too good, as the manuals I can locate today are not nearly as comprehensive.
But still worth a read,
Nice chunky gators, changed them on my Hims to something a bit bigger when the OEM fell apart.
Short aftermarket gators are hard to find , but a set made for BSA heavyweight forks worked OK with a bit packing at the top!
I don't trust Indian rubber--!
 

fog rider

Finally made it
Location
Alberta
A few years ago I donated a collection of 60's Honda bikes, OEM parts, poster art work, and service literature to a motorcycle museum.

Some of those old common service manuals were pretty good. Many of the old glossy-paper factory service manuals had detailed descriptions of how motorcycle systems worked. Some of the old service manuals were god-awful, though!

Did you have to suffer through the micro-fiche service manual era? Man, those were terrible!

The gators look top-notch, but looks can be deceiving. Thanks for the heads-up. I'll see how they last......
 

Roy Gavin

Well travelled
Never went through micro- fiche era, first Honda was a 93 VFR 750 P which I bought when it was 10 years old , and had 30,000 km on the clock. Which apparently is around the usual yearly average for Honda road bikes!
Hardly ever needed the service manuals, didn't even need the valves adjusted in 140,000 km.
I had the gators lying around for about 10 years waiting to go on to a BSA B44VS, and when I couldn't find any short aftermarket gaiters had a look to see how they fitted.
If you have ever tried to align BSA forks you will understand my reluctance to touch a pair that were sliding easily!
RE has been a progressively upgrading things which were not up to International standards, hopefully the quality of the rubber parts has been one which has been upgraded.
 
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