With many years experience wrenching on my own bikes I decided to do the 500 km (300 miles) first service myself.
I was not able to find a service manual to purchase and Royal Enfield USA customer support did not reply to my email asking for torque specs and tappet clearances. When I asked my dealer's service department if they had the proper specs from Royal Enfield to perform everything called for in the owners manual for a first service the reaction was one of "deer in the headlights" because they had not done one yet.
So I decided to do it myself. At this time the only videos I could find were made in India. There are several that show how the oil change is done so I won't cover that.
I could only find one video that included valve adjustment for the first service even though the owners manual call for it at 500 km (300 miles).
A YouTube video from India, filmed in what appeared to be a RE dealer's shop, showed tappet clearances of .08 mm intake and .18mm exhaust. To be clear, I do not know for a fact that these are what Royal Enfield specifies. I am not saying these are the correct specs. Only Royal Enfield knows for sure. However, with 340 miles on the clock my Meteor's gaps were .07 and .18, so I adjusted the intake to .08 and left the exhaust alone.
First Service parts:
First Service Kit
I don't know if the USA dealers have these or not. I purchased a first service kit from a parts supplier in India. A highly rated business and it arrived in about a week. It was 50 bucks including shipping. This kit included the RE brand oil filter, o-rings for the oil strainer cover, oil filter cover, and the cover on the port side for the crank shaft 17 mm bolt. Also included were the valve cover gasket and the three sealing washers for the three bolts that fasten down the valve cover. (note - the replacement washers were of noticeably better quality than those that were on the bike). What was NOT INCLUDED was the copper washer for the 17 mm drain plug. Also not included - and understandably so - black RTV sealant as used by the factory for the area around the "plug" on the valve cover gasket (once you see the valve cover gasket you'll know what I'm referring to here).
How to do the first service tappets.
Tank removal to access tappet adjustment
Remove passengers seat - 4 hex bolts
Remove drivers seat - 2 10mm bolts
Remove long bolt holding the back of the gas tank to the frame - 8mm port side, 10mm starboard
( From here on it is helpful to have a block of wood, such as a 6 inch piece of a 2x4, to help prop up the back of the gas tank to make it easier to disconnect things attached to the underside)
Port side, disconnect the fuel hose and the adjacent electrical connection - no fuel will come out of the tank however there is a bit of fuel in the hose to worry with
Starboard side, pull off the two hoses that are side by side near that rear section of the tank. At this point the tank can be removed by raising the rear and sliding in back a couple inches.
Removing the Valve Cover
Perhaps an experienced mechanic could skip removing some of these things but here is what I did :
- *take pictures for reference later*
- remove spark plug ( clean around the plug to make sure nothing falls into the cylinder)
- disconnect fuel injector plug-in electrical connector
- remove coil assembly, held on to the frame by three 10mm bolts starboard side. In order to remove this assembly you will need to disconnect 4 or 5 electrical connectors and a vacuum hose. Each connection is unique so it is not possible to make a mistake when you reconnect. Pictures are very helpful though for reassembly.
Remove Valve Cover :
- three bolts on the top
- two small hex bolts on the port side for a small cover plate
- pry gently on the valve cover to break it free - everything is aluminum so be gentle - I wrapped a paper towel around a flat blade screwdriver to keep from scratching the finish
- remove the valve cover by lifting it up and then out
Adjusting The Tappet Clearances :
- finding top dead center (piston at highest point, both intake and exhaust valves closed. This is the traditional method but the problem is, from my observation, that there is no well defined marking on the timing gear or the 17mm crankshaft bolt / surrounding flange.
ALSO - I was not comfortable turning the engine using the 17mm crankshaft bolt, not knowing if it was a right hand or left hand thread. Therefore I put the bike in 2nd gear and rotated the back tire by hand, until I was able to observe both cam lobes in the "down" position, and feeling the slack in the valve clearance by wiggling the rocker arms with my fingers. With the spark plugs removed the engine can be easily rotated this way.
- Intake valve nearest the rear of the engine
- Exhaust valve nearest the front of the engine
- measure the clearance (gap) before making adjustments. (I record this in my maintenance log as reference each time; this info can prove valuable in the future)
- if the gap needs to be adjusted, loosen the 10mm nut to allow the screw to turn, insert the correct size feeler gauge, finger tighten the screw until a slight drag us felt on the feeler gauge, then Re-tighten the 10mm nut. Check the gap after re-tightening. Sorry I don't have a torque value for this but it felt like 60 to 80 inch pounds when I loosened it; not a practice I would recommend but I just used my muscle memory when I tightened the nut, having done I don't know how many of these types of valve adjustments on old bikes I've owned in the past (CX500, 1st gen Goldwing, BMW airheads)
The New Valve Cover Gasket:
- clean the engine surface with a cloth or a sponge and some carburetor cleaner or some rubbing alcohol (spray it on the cloth not on the engine)
- remove the factory RTV sealant from the engine surface around the gasket "plug" using a plastic scraper or a credit card - remember that this is an aluminum engine and if you use a stainless steel razor blade it's pretty easy to make a mistake and scar or gouge the aluminum - I had a fairly new credit card with the edges still sharp and it worked very well - scrape the RTV towards the outside of the engine, try to avoid getting RTV flakes in the engine.
- clean the groove in the valve cover where the gasket goes
- clean the VC surface where the gasket/washers for the VC bolts go
- use new washers or do a good job of cleaning the old ones if they are still healthy
Reassembly:
- you will need to fit the new VC gasket firmly in the groove in the valve cover. Some adhesive is needed otherwise the gasket will become dislodged when you turn the cover over to install - I'm not a big fan of spray tack so I put 6 dabs of RTV in the groove, pressed in the gasket and let it set up for an hour while I changed the oil.
- where the gasket "plug" fits in the engine put a medium spread of RTV as was done at the factory, make sure to cover the sharp corners where the "plug" fits and about an inch on the flat surface on both sides of where the plug fits.
- fit the valve cover with the gasket in place carefully - especially the "plug" - go ahead and screw the bolts in a little to help center the valve cover - press it down by hand before tightening the bolts - you can use a flashlight to visually inspect how the gasket is mating to the engine surface before tightening the three bolts. These bolts tighten to a "stop". It's best to make three or four passes, tightening all three bolts a little at a time putting even pressure on the gasket.
- install the little side plate on the port side
Now is a good time to take a look at the pictures you took before putting the coil assembly back and reconnecting everything.
OIL CHANGE
- remove the 17mm drain plug on the bottom of the engine to drain the oil - a new copper washer is always best but mine was in good enough shape I used it again.
- remove the cover plate for the engine oil strainer - bottom of engine, two 8mm bolts
- remove and clean the cylindrical oil strainer. It is plastic and held in place by an o-ring, so it doesn't need a lot of force to remove, fingers might do it, but I ended up using pliers
- inspect strainer for debris and clean ( mine had a few flecks if RTV from the factory assembly but zero metal)
- remove the three bolts attaching the oil filter cover on the starboard side. Be prepared for a couple ounces of oil to come out.
- remove the oil filter and inspect for debris (mine had zero - even ran a magnet over the filter and got nothing. Very impressive.)
Clean up the cover plates, fit new o-rings and put a light coating of oil on them. Clean the mating surfaces on the engine.
Put everything back together bearing in mind the engine is aluminum and the bolts are steel i.e. maybe 60 - 80 inch pounds of torque on the small bolts. and fill with 1.7 liters of 15-50 motorcycle oil. Oil specs are in the owners manual. Do not use automobile oil. I used Quicksilver full synthetic. API SN and JASO MA/MA2. Quicksilver is a product of Mercury Marine. About 7 bucks a quart.
Now my only problem is how to turn off the flashing wrench on the instrument cluster. If anyone knows the answer to that please let me know.
I was not able to find a service manual to purchase and Royal Enfield USA customer support did not reply to my email asking for torque specs and tappet clearances. When I asked my dealer's service department if they had the proper specs from Royal Enfield to perform everything called for in the owners manual for a first service the reaction was one of "deer in the headlights" because they had not done one yet.
So I decided to do it myself. At this time the only videos I could find were made in India. There are several that show how the oil change is done so I won't cover that.
I could only find one video that included valve adjustment for the first service even though the owners manual call for it at 500 km (300 miles).
A YouTube video from India, filmed in what appeared to be a RE dealer's shop, showed tappet clearances of .08 mm intake and .18mm exhaust. To be clear, I do not know for a fact that these are what Royal Enfield specifies. I am not saying these are the correct specs. Only Royal Enfield knows for sure. However, with 340 miles on the clock my Meteor's gaps were .07 and .18, so I adjusted the intake to .08 and left the exhaust alone.
First Service parts:
First Service Kit
I don't know if the USA dealers have these or not. I purchased a first service kit from a parts supplier in India. A highly rated business and it arrived in about a week. It was 50 bucks including shipping. This kit included the RE brand oil filter, o-rings for the oil strainer cover, oil filter cover, and the cover on the port side for the crank shaft 17 mm bolt. Also included were the valve cover gasket and the three sealing washers for the three bolts that fasten down the valve cover. (note - the replacement washers were of noticeably better quality than those that were on the bike). What was NOT INCLUDED was the copper washer for the 17 mm drain plug. Also not included - and understandably so - black RTV sealant as used by the factory for the area around the "plug" on the valve cover gasket (once you see the valve cover gasket you'll know what I'm referring to here).
How to do the first service tappets.
Tank removal to access tappet adjustment
Remove passengers seat - 4 hex bolts
Remove drivers seat - 2 10mm bolts
Remove long bolt holding the back of the gas tank to the frame - 8mm port side, 10mm starboard
( From here on it is helpful to have a block of wood, such as a 6 inch piece of a 2x4, to help prop up the back of the gas tank to make it easier to disconnect things attached to the underside)
Port side, disconnect the fuel hose and the adjacent electrical connection - no fuel will come out of the tank however there is a bit of fuel in the hose to worry with
Starboard side, pull off the two hoses that are side by side near that rear section of the tank. At this point the tank can be removed by raising the rear and sliding in back a couple inches.
Removing the Valve Cover
Perhaps an experienced mechanic could skip removing some of these things but here is what I did :
- *take pictures for reference later*
- remove spark plug ( clean around the plug to make sure nothing falls into the cylinder)
- disconnect fuel injector plug-in electrical connector
- remove coil assembly, held on to the frame by three 10mm bolts starboard side. In order to remove this assembly you will need to disconnect 4 or 5 electrical connectors and a vacuum hose. Each connection is unique so it is not possible to make a mistake when you reconnect. Pictures are very helpful though for reassembly.
Remove Valve Cover :
- three bolts on the top
- two small hex bolts on the port side for a small cover plate
- pry gently on the valve cover to break it free - everything is aluminum so be gentle - I wrapped a paper towel around a flat blade screwdriver to keep from scratching the finish
- remove the valve cover by lifting it up and then out
Adjusting The Tappet Clearances :
- finding top dead center (piston at highest point, both intake and exhaust valves closed. This is the traditional method but the problem is, from my observation, that there is no well defined marking on the timing gear or the 17mm crankshaft bolt / surrounding flange.
ALSO - I was not comfortable turning the engine using the 17mm crankshaft bolt, not knowing if it was a right hand or left hand thread. Therefore I put the bike in 2nd gear and rotated the back tire by hand, until I was able to observe both cam lobes in the "down" position, and feeling the slack in the valve clearance by wiggling the rocker arms with my fingers. With the spark plugs removed the engine can be easily rotated this way.
- Intake valve nearest the rear of the engine
- Exhaust valve nearest the front of the engine
- measure the clearance (gap) before making adjustments. (I record this in my maintenance log as reference each time; this info can prove valuable in the future)
- if the gap needs to be adjusted, loosen the 10mm nut to allow the screw to turn, insert the correct size feeler gauge, finger tighten the screw until a slight drag us felt on the feeler gauge, then Re-tighten the 10mm nut. Check the gap after re-tightening. Sorry I don't have a torque value for this but it felt like 60 to 80 inch pounds when I loosened it; not a practice I would recommend but I just used my muscle memory when I tightened the nut, having done I don't know how many of these types of valve adjustments on old bikes I've owned in the past (CX500, 1st gen Goldwing, BMW airheads)
The New Valve Cover Gasket:
- clean the engine surface with a cloth or a sponge and some carburetor cleaner or some rubbing alcohol (spray it on the cloth not on the engine)
- remove the factory RTV sealant from the engine surface around the gasket "plug" using a plastic scraper or a credit card - remember that this is an aluminum engine and if you use a stainless steel razor blade it's pretty easy to make a mistake and scar or gouge the aluminum - I had a fairly new credit card with the edges still sharp and it worked very well - scrape the RTV towards the outside of the engine, try to avoid getting RTV flakes in the engine.
- clean the groove in the valve cover where the gasket goes
- clean the VC surface where the gasket/washers for the VC bolts go
- use new washers or do a good job of cleaning the old ones if they are still healthy
Reassembly:
- you will need to fit the new VC gasket firmly in the groove in the valve cover. Some adhesive is needed otherwise the gasket will become dislodged when you turn the cover over to install - I'm not a big fan of spray tack so I put 6 dabs of RTV in the groove, pressed in the gasket and let it set up for an hour while I changed the oil.
- where the gasket "plug" fits in the engine put a medium spread of RTV as was done at the factory, make sure to cover the sharp corners where the "plug" fits and about an inch on the flat surface on both sides of where the plug fits.
- fit the valve cover with the gasket in place carefully - especially the "plug" - go ahead and screw the bolts in a little to help center the valve cover - press it down by hand before tightening the bolts - you can use a flashlight to visually inspect how the gasket is mating to the engine surface before tightening the three bolts. These bolts tighten to a "stop". It's best to make three or four passes, tightening all three bolts a little at a time putting even pressure on the gasket.
- install the little side plate on the port side
Now is a good time to take a look at the pictures you took before putting the coil assembly back and reconnecting everything.
OIL CHANGE
- remove the 17mm drain plug on the bottom of the engine to drain the oil - a new copper washer is always best but mine was in good enough shape I used it again.
- remove the cover plate for the engine oil strainer - bottom of engine, two 8mm bolts
- remove and clean the cylindrical oil strainer. It is plastic and held in place by an o-ring, so it doesn't need a lot of force to remove, fingers might do it, but I ended up using pliers
- inspect strainer for debris and clean ( mine had a few flecks if RTV from the factory assembly but zero metal)
- remove the three bolts attaching the oil filter cover on the starboard side. Be prepared for a couple ounces of oil to come out.
- remove the oil filter and inspect for debris (mine had zero - even ran a magnet over the filter and got nothing. Very impressive.)
Clean up the cover plates, fit new o-rings and put a light coating of oil on them. Clean the mating surfaces on the engine.
Put everything back together bearing in mind the engine is aluminum and the bolts are steel i.e. maybe 60 - 80 inch pounds of torque on the small bolts. and fill with 1.7 liters of 15-50 motorcycle oil. Oil specs are in the owners manual. Do not use automobile oil. I used Quicksilver full synthetic. API SN and JASO MA/MA2. Quicksilver is a product of Mercury Marine. About 7 bucks a quart.
Now my only problem is how to turn off the flashing wrench on the instrument cluster. If anyone knows the answer to that please let me know.