• NEW USERS: If you haven't received your Confirmation Email: There has been an ongoing issue with the forum's send mail function and many new users haven't received the email to confirm their registration. I've done my best to manually process these, so there's a good chance if you've signed up in the past 30 days that you've already been validated and can proceed with posting on the forum (don't forget to introduce yourself!). If you still can't get in, please use the Contact Us link on the bottom of any page to send me a message and I'll process you manually. Thanks for your patience! ~Jerk

Chain and sprockets

MrDralas

Well travelled
Location
Planet Earth
So, I’m finished my south western USA trip. Got back last night, I ran out of chain adjustments a few days ago so my chain is extra dickard now. Thoughts on replacements? I’m leaning towards the factory replacements they sell on eBay, as they are cheap should last as long as the factory one (12k miles or 20k km) and they are cheap.
66E36F60-B357-4201-A558-EBCA615E91FF.jpeg
7B9BFDDA-83E2-4165-843A-DAF700791AC1.jpeg
1393E14A-BDE1-4BC0-BF2D-1FF9117335DA.jpeg
 

TN_twowheeladdict

Well travelled
Location
Tennessee
If you are doing it yourself and don't put a monetary value on your time then cheap is good. High Quality Chain and sprockets can last twice that many miles when cared for. I've only ever had one chain bike long enough to replace the chain. That was my '11 Versys 650. OEM shot at 15,000 miles. Replacement still perfect at 15,000 miles. Don't recall the specifics but I believe it was a DID X-ring chain and sprockets set.

I prefer belt and shaft drive on my high mileage bikes.
 

MrDralas

Well travelled
Location
Planet Earth
If you are doing it yourself and don't put a monetary value on your time then cheap is good. High Quality Chain and sprockets can last twice that many miles when cared for. I've only ever had one chain bike long enough to replace the chain. That was my '11 Versys 650. OEM shot at 15,000 miles. Replacement still perfect at 15,000 miles. Don't recall the specifics but I believe it was a DID X-ring chain and sprockets set.

I prefer belt and shaft drive on my high mileage bikes.
How much more dollar would a high quality chain a sprocket cost? If its double the price for double the time then it’s not bad, but if it’s any more then that it’s not worth it. A chain and sprockets job would be maybe an hour tops job to do, I get to check the wheel bearings as well as clean the swing arm and such while it’s apart. I also need to remove the swing arm and regrease the bearings so overlap of removing the wheel and stuff makes it less of a job.

I called the dealer, they have the sprockets in stock, RE replacements and they have a non RE chain in stock (did or maybe something?) it’s about the same price as the eBay kits so I might go that route.

I only have the Himalayan, if there was another bike similar to the Himalayan that wasn’t chain maybe I’d go that route.
Similar as in cheap, new and lacking in features I have zero interest in.
 
Last edited:

Kiwiscoot

Well travelled
Have you thought of fitting a Tutoro chain oiler. I fitted one about straight after getting the bike and my bike has done 10 000 km and I have yet to adjust the chain. Cuts down on the messy chain cleans too.

https://www.tutorochainoiler.com/
http://earth-roamers.blogspot.com/2015/11/jt-sprockets-and-tutoro-under-harsh.html

I could put some photos up of my installation if you want to see what it looks like on a Himma. One of the best things I did to the bike, set, ride and forget about a messy chain.
 

MrDralas

Well travelled
Location
Planet Earth
Have you thought of fitting a Tutoro chain oiler. I fitted one about straight after getting the bike and my bike has done 10 000 km and I have yet to adjust the chain. Cuts down on the messy chain cleans too.

https://www.tutorochainoiler.com/
http://earth-roamers.blogspot.com/2015/11/jt-sprockets-and-tutoro-under-harsh.html

I could put some photos up of my installation if you want to see what it looks like on a Himma. One of the best things I did to the bike, set, ride and forget about a messy chain.
Thanks, I’ll read up about them. I didn’t need to adjust my chain for the first 14000km then I was adjusting it every night.
Sorry that’s a lie, I had to loosen the chain when I first got the bike as the dealer had it set too tight.
 

TN_twowheeladdict

Well travelled
Location
Tennessee
Have you thought of fitting a Tutoro chain oiler. I fitted one about straight after getting the bike and my bike has done 10 000 km and I have yet to adjust the chain. Cuts down on the messy chain cleans too.

https://www.tutorochainoiler.com/
http://earth-roamers.blogspot.com/2015/11/jt-sprockets-and-tutoro-under-harsh.html

I could put some photos up of my installation if you want to see what it looks like on a Himma. One of the best things I did to the bike, set, ride and forget about a messy chain.
Definitely would like to see it. I am manually lubing with gear oil and am so glad the Himalayan has a center stand. :)
 

Kiwiscoot

Well travelled
Fitted the Tutoro chain oiler behind the pillion footpeg frame on the bike. Should be out of harms way from pillion passengers and saddle bags (and the back wheel
:D
)
tutoro1.jpg

oiler2 small.jpg

oilernozzle2 small.jpg


I got the twin nozzle. Mounted it like this.

oilernozzle1 small.jpg
It is well protected by the plastic chain guard in place.

One turn of the Tutoro's tap with the Tutoro oil at 12C (54F) seems to be OK. I am well pleased with the build quality, ease of fitment and the documentation. A worthwhile investment in lengthening chain life I think. A good 9000+ kms on it and no issues, even with rough terrain.

I have used 85/90w gearbox/differential oil too as I had some, works fine. From what I understand it has the same viscosity as 20W50, so once my Tutoro oil is finished I will use that. The beauty of the Tutoro is that it doesn't need vacuum/electricity and has a tap to regulate the flow, so you can use any oil really. Thicker oil is better as the thin oils can cause a bit of a mess on rough dirt roads, but hey just close the tap a little more if that is the case.

I have used old engine oil too on my long trip and it worked fine. No need really to take oil with on the trip should you run out, just dive into a mechanic shop and beg some old oil. Now I guess the purists will all sing an opera (o_O) of how bad that is with contaminants, etc. in the old oil, but hey the environment the chain lives in has way more gremlins. At home I stick to clean oil. Just my 2c...
 
Last edited:

MrDralas

Well travelled
Location
Planet Earth
Fitted the Tutoro chain oiler behind the pillion footpeg frame on the bike. Should be out of harms way from pillion passengers and saddle bags (and the back wheel
:D
)
View attachment 490

View attachment 491

View attachment 492


I got the twin nozzle. Mounted it like this.

View attachment 493
It is well protected by the plastic chain guard in place.

One turn of the Tutoro's tap with the Tutoro oil at 12C (54F) seems to be OK. I am well pleased with the build quality, ease of fitment and the documentation. A worthwhile investment in lengthening chain life I think. A good 9000+ kms on it and no issues, even with rough terrain.

I have used 85/90w gearbox/differential oil too as I had some, works fine. From what I understand it has the same viscosity as 20W50, so once my Tutoro oil is finished I will use that. The beauty of the Tutoro is that it doesn't need vacuum/electricity and has a tap to regulate the flow, so you can use any oil really. Thicker oil is better as the thin oils can cause a bit of a mess on rough dirt roads, but hey just close the tap a little more if that is the case.

I have used old engine oil too on my long trip and it worked fine. No need really to take oil with on the trip should you run out, just dive into a mechanic shop and beg some old oil. Now I guess the purists will all sing an opera (o_O) of how bad that is with contaminants, etc. in the old oil, but hey the environment the chain lives in has way more gremlins. At home I stick to clean oil. Just my 2c...
The only problem with used oil is that it’s acidic, I wouldn’t worry about whatever else is in there. Then again its not acidic enough to cause and problems unless you let it soak in the oil for a extended period of time which would never happen and some oil is better then no oil.
 

TN_twowheeladdict

Well travelled
Location
Tennessee
Fitted the Tutoro chain oiler behind the pillion footpeg frame on the bike. Should be out of harms way from pillion passengers and saddle bags (and the back wheel
:D
)
View attachment 490

View attachment 491

View attachment 492


I got the twin nozzle. Mounted it like this.

View attachment 493
It is well protected by the plastic chain guard in place.

One turn of the Tutoro's tap with the Tutoro oil at 12C (54F) seems to be OK. I am well pleased with the build quality, ease of fitment and the documentation. A worthwhile investment in lengthening chain life I think. A good 9000+ kms on it and no issues, even with rough terrain.

I have used 85/90w gearbox/differential oil too as I had some, works fine. From what I understand it has the same viscosity as 20W50, so once my Tutoro oil is finished I will use that. The beauty of the Tutoro is that it doesn't need vacuum/electricity and has a tap to regulate the flow, so you can use any oil really. Thicker oil is better as the thin oils can cause a bit of a mess on rough dirt roads, but hey just close the tap a little more if that is the case.

I have used old engine oil too on my long trip and it worked fine. No need really to take oil with on the trip should you run out, just dive into a mechanic shop and beg some old oil. Now I guess the purists will all sing an opera (o_O) of how bad that is with contaminants, etc. in the old oil, but hey the environment the chain lives in has way more gremlins. At home I stick to clean oil. Just my 2c...
So, do you have to remember to shut it off when you park the bike, or does it rely on motion across the tube to get the oil to flow?
 

Kiwiscoot

Well travelled
So, do you have to remember to shut it off when you park the bike, or does it rely on motion across the tube to get the oil to flow?
It is quite ingenious. It has a weight operated metal valve inside. The motion of the bike causes the weight to move around, opening the valve to let the oil thru. The valve is closed when there is no motion. The feed is by gravity. A magnet is supplied with it to keep the weighted metal valve open and allow you to set the little tap to the right "oil drip" during installation. The magnet is removed after installation.
https://www.tutorochainoiler.com/pages/how-does-the-tutoro-auto-work

You do not need to close it when you park the bike and there is no drip from the feeder or the chain. I keep an eye on the chain and when it's warmer and the chain looks a bit to wet to my liking I close the little tap a quarter of a turn. Cold weather or very rainy trip I open it a quarter of a turn if the chain does not look oily enough. It is a surprise how little oil is needed. With it filled up I would say I get about 2000 kms from tarmac and gravel road riding. I got about 1500 kms when I did the hard core off-roading in December.
 

MrDralas

Well travelled
Location
Planet Earth
Oh, so Royal Enfield has a chain and sprockets kit they sell I guess. Probably the same one as they sell on eBay but you can get it from your local dealer for around $80 which is similar to the eBay price. I was ordering some other stuff (swing arm caps 😒) so I figured I’d get it as well. I’ll post some photos when it comes in and I throw it on, I think my sprockets are fine, I’ll change them anyways but it’ll be good to compare them anyways.
 

CarstenB

Well travelled
Location
h-town tx
Oh, so Royal Enfield has a chain and sprockets kit they sell I guess. Probably the same one as they sell on eBay but you can get it from your local dealer for around $80 which is similar to the eBay price. I was ordering some other stuff (swing arm caps 😒) so I figured I’d get it as well. I’ll post some photos when it comes in and I throw it on, I think my sprockets are fine, I’ll change them anyways but it’ll be good to compare them anyways.
let's hope the dealer can deliver as quick as the ebay sellers in India... That rear sprocket is done and i am amazed that the chain didn't jump off. Always replace the entire kit.
 

Attachments

Eatmore Mudd

Moderator
Staff member
In street use me and my brother used to get 20,000 miles out of O ring chains before the O rings crapped out then we'd squeeze another 10,000 out of them treating them like non O ring chains.
 

MrDralas

Well travelled
Location
Planet Earth
let's hope the dealer can deliver as quick as the ebay sellers in India... That rear sprocket is done and i am amazed that the chain didn't jump off. Always replace the entire kit.
Replacing the whole kit was the plan 👍. I like to compare old vs new parts to see how wear happens between them. Probably my time spent as a tech, rather then just figuring problems and replacing broken part, the why the part failed in the first place is what I like to know. This ones easy, but still good to see them side by each.
Slow and smooth throttle inputs is why it never jumped, I can pull it off the rear sprocket by hand so I think it would have with a hard down shift or a throttle snap. Not as bad as my SV chain was when I bought it, I’ll look to see if I have a photo some where’s.

In street use me and my brother used to get 20,000 miles out of O ring chains before the O rings crapped out then we'd squeeze another 10,000 out of them treating them like non O ring chains.
My orings are still there, everything else is kinda dickard. The chain didn’t have any problems until a few days in sandy stuff without much to clean it and I ran out of lube, by the time I got new stuff I had to start adjusting it then it kinda disappeared quickly.

New fork oils today. Easy, easy job just doing fork oil is compared to fork seals or drilling the valving and replacing it with emulators.
The worlds heaviest rim and tire combo
8157B43C-8856-48DC-89D8-AFF0E84AE003.jpeg
Safety first bike stand
6489A8F1-C9FD-4691-93F2-AF0CD701F7D2.jpeg
Kinda gross looking oil
C78EC5E7-15FE-4FEB-8B93-D5ABD765F061.jpeg
Fancy spring waiting to go some place
A736B587-B2E9-45AB-AB1D-0C337D999905.jpeg
And the most accurate way you’ll ever see some one measuring fork oil
0E8F5DF2-7CBE-4DD6-BF1A-CBE725617F84.jpeg
 
Last edited:

MrDralas

Well travelled
Location
Planet Earth
let's hope the dealer can deliver as quick as the ebay sellers in India... That rear sprocket is done and i am amazed that the chain didn't jump off. Always replace the entire kit.
Oh I found my pictures of my SV sprockets, still waiting on the ones from the dealer....but they said this week just didn’t say a day. Not a huge deal as it’ll be weekend before I’d get a chance to do them anyways.
These ones where fairly dickard.
9CBC6809-3C06-4635-8075-F81F293974F1.jpeg
07EBD7CD-4081-41EE-BD53-7EDD380E8FD0.jpeg
 

TN_twowheeladdict

Well travelled
Location
Tennessee
It is quite ingenious. It has a weight operated metal valve inside. The motion of the bike causes the weight to move around, opening the valve to let the oil thru. The valve is closed when there is no motion. The feed is by gravity. A magnet is supplied with it to keep the weighted metal valve open and allow you to set the little tap to the right "oil drip" during installation. The magnet is removed after installation.
https://www.tutorochainoiler.com/pages/how-does-the-tutoro-auto-work

You do not need to close it when you park the bike and there is no drip from the feeder or the chain. I keep an eye on the chain and when it's warmer and the chain looks a bit to wet to my liking I close the little tap a quarter of a turn. Cold weather or very rainy trip I open it a quarter of a turn if the chain does not look oily enough. It is a surprise how little oil is needed. With it filled up I would say I get about 2000 kms from tarmac and gravel road riding. I got about 1500 kms when I did the hard core off-roading in December.
Before deciding to purchase a chain oiler I wanted to experiment with gear oil on my chain. Got a warm chain nice and clean and then lubed it with the gear oil. Wiped off the excess and then when cool wiped it again.

3 days later I loaded the bike up in my trailer to take on a camping trip to explore new roads. When I unloaded the bike and was unloading some camping gear from the trailer I noticed some oil drips on the floor. Of course my first thought was "OIL LEAK!", but then I remembered the gear oil. OK.

When I would stop during the ride I could get whiffs of hot oil which would previously alert me of some oil seepage or worse, but with nothing visible chalked it up to the gear oil on the chain.

After 180 miles of riding Chert roads, with a dozen or so water crossings thrown in, the chain is pretty nasty.

I will give it another round before I decide to go with an oiler or go back to DuPont Chain products.
 

Loadtoad

Well travelled

MrDralas

Well travelled
Location
Planet Earth
I already ordered the factory ones, I think I hit one with my boot which is why it’s missing. I’ll probably just glue it in so it stay, those plugs would have been good if I didn’t order mine already, I spend the 4 dollars on 2 of them though so they are getting used untill they are gone.
 

Kiwiscoot

Well travelled
Before deciding to purchase a chain oiler I wanted to experiment with gear oil on my chain. Got a warm chain nice and clean and then lubed it with the gear oil. Wiped off the excess and then when cool wiped it again.

3 days later I loaded the bike up in my trailer to take on a camping trip to explore new roads. When I unloaded the bike and was unloading some camping gear from the trailer I noticed some oil drips on the floor. Of course my first thought was "OIL LEAK!", but then I remembered the gear oil. OK.

When I would stop during the ride I could get whiffs of hot oil which would previously alert me of some oil seepage or worse, but with nothing visible chalked it up to the gear oil on the chain.

After 180 miles of riding Chert roads, with a dozen or so water crossings thrown in, the chain is pretty nasty.

I will give it another round before I decide to go with an oiler or go back to DuPont Chain products.
As the oiler delivers the clean oil to the sides of the back sprocket, centrifugal forces distributes the oil to the chain. This cause the clean oil to constantly migrate from the inside of the chain over the O-rings to the outside during a ride, a "washing effect" carrying the dirt/dust to the outside of the chain where is is slung off, keeping the inside and O-rings of the chain clean. It is this "constant washing effect" that keeps the chain clean, stops O-rings from running dry and prolong the chain's life. A total different concept to propriety chain lube.

Just lubricating the chain with gear oil (as one would do with proper chain lubricant) would be worse IMO for the chain as the gear oil creates a sticky surface for the dust to stick to and mixing with the oil to become a grinding paste. Result =Accelerated wear. Better to stick to proper chain lubricant as it normally has a type of a wax base to minimise dust sticking to it.
 
Last edited:

MrDralas

Well travelled
Location
Planet Earth
So my new chain and sprocket set came in today. I ran out and picked them up as well as a throttle and clutch cable spares. Comparing the new and old sprockets I’m sure I could have just done a chain and ran them again it I needed to.
I got a new front tire mounted today while I was running around.... me thinks I should probably buy a car at some point, the tire was a bit of pain to haul around on my wife’s bike.
The rim and old tire as a back pack
FA5403E2-0786-4C83-9D70-BCCF55A3CE2E.jpeg
The rim with new tire as a backpack, when I went to pick it up it was a different guy from when dropped the tire off and he was confused how I was gonna carry it on the bike.
FC5E3F22-2ECD-4221-B11B-106029B365E1.jpeg
And here’s a few photos of the sprockets and chain C4CCAC71-111A-475E-86E4-33480787BB0F.jpegDC1EFE84-6D1F-4A29-97CE-0FAA5196BB39.jpeg
 
Top Bottom