• NEW USERS: If you haven't received your Confirmation Email: There has been an ongoing issue with the forum's send mail function and many new users haven't received the email to confirm their registration. I've done my best to manually process these, so there's a good chance if you've signed up in the past 30 days that you've already been validated and can proceed with posting on the forum (don't forget to introduce yourself!). If you still can't get in, please use the Contact Us link on the bottom of any page to send me a message and I'll process you manually. Thanks for your patience! ~Jerk

What have you done to your Himalayan today (or yesterday, or this week ...)

Laserman

Well travelled
Staff member
Location
Yuba City, CA
The time finally came for me to replace my rear CEAT tire. 5600 miles and it was starting to get smooth in the center. I ordered a Shinko E705 from Amazon a couple weeks back in preparation for this event. If you're curious about it's specs, I capped this from shinkotireusa.com:

ShinkoE705spec.jpg


It looks like 130/90/17 could fit if one wanted a fatter tire, but I went with the factory 120/90. It was $84 shipped when I bought it which was a decent deal. A friend at a motorcycle shop offered to do the tire for me while I was working, so I took the rear wheel off and drove my old diesel Benz to work, dropping the wheel off at my friend's shop. I removed the sprocket holder from the wheel before I dropped it off, ofc.

I wanted to replace the factory 38T sprocket with a 36T sprocket I purchased from Hitchcock's. This will drop my RPMs by ~400 in 5th gear from what they are stock. There are 2 reasons I did this rather than change the (cheaper) front sprocket: 1, 2 teeth on the rear sprocket isn't as much as a change as 1 tooth on front. Hark:

14/38 = 12.08MPH per 1000RPM = 6.28:1 Overall Ratio = 60.4MPH @5K RPM
14/36 = 12.76 per 1000 = 5.95:1 = 63.8MPH
15/38 = 12.96 per 1000 = 5.86:1 = 64.8MPH (factory)
15/36 = 13.68 per 1000 = 5.55:1 = 68.4MPH
16/38 = 13.82 per 1000 = 5.49:1 = 69.1MPH
16/36 = 14.58 per 1000 = 5.20:1 = 72.9MPH
Hence, my acceleration won't be slowed as much with a 36T rear as it would stepping up to a 16T front. Which leads me to the second reason I did this: my axle adjustment was already almost max forward, I would have had to add links to my chain to install a 16T! That aint happening, so here we go.

The sprocket is bolted to the holder with 8MM hex bolts backed by 14MM nuts. I removed the factory steel 38T and bolted on my 36T aluminum beauty:
SprocketBack.jpg...SprocketFront.jpg

Got my wheel back with tire installed and put everything back together. I noticed I technically gained about a half inch of wheelbase because my axle is now slightly past the middle of range after setting chain slack. Geared up and went for a ride. The rear feels taller (new tire is 3/4 inch diameter larger than worn CEAT), the gearing is definitely taller, and the bike feels considerably less stressed at 55MPH. After pulling over to inspect everything and get the oil to at least 50C, I got on the highway to see what she'd do over 60MPH. At one point Toto was easily holding 75MPH, which is far beyond what I would have taken her before. I really just did this to lower RPM at 60MPH or less. There is some impact on acceleration, and I really noticed it accelerating in 4th and 5th against a headwind lol. Maybe I should do a cam or something :D

MissionSuccess.jpg
 

madbiker

Well travelled
Location
United Kingdom
As I am getting ready to do some traveling again, albeit limited to Europe, I have just stripped down the front and rear calipers and fitted new seals etc. and fitted new pads. This is the first time the brake pads have been replaced. They both had about 1/4 left in them having done 33,000 miles (50,000 Km)

I also have the touring seat fitted and I find this a literal pain in the butt after a couple of hours, so, I made a sheepskin cover which I hope will make hours in the saddle much more bearable.

1.jpg

2.jpg
 

Laserman

Well travelled
Staff member
Location
Yuba City, CA
Rode almost 100 miles today, got too much sun! Put the new rear sprocket and tire through some twisty roads in the Sierra Nevada foothills, love how useful 3rd and 4th gear are now, they carry more speed which is useful. Made my usual beer drop-off at "Uncle Indian's place, took a few pics:

FrontView.jpg...SnailView.jpg...LeftLower.jpg

I used to remove the basket for pleasure rides, but I actually get quite a few compliments on it. Well, that I hear anyway, I'm sure there's some folks out there thinking I bumped my head for bolting a basket to my motorcycle 😁

it does hold a lot of beer..
 

Andy131

Well travelled
Location
Manchester UK
Nipped out for a few hours and 150+ miles, about to place an order for a touring seat strewth my *rse is killing me.
Lots of fun, lots of Sunday drivers, two did U turns in front of me, one loon came out strait in front of me and a TVR (sports car) decided that his racing line was on my side of the road :mad:. The Himmys brakes might not be up to GP standards, but they work hard when you grab a real fist full of lever.

Treat all other road users as if they were paid assassins out to get you, this includes pedestrians and lycra louts.

Many moons ago I had a 750 Bonneville that would unscrew its indicators at 70mph or above - turns out the Himmy knows the same trick, that and and the NS mirror points down as you pass 70mph.. I did say that she had a sense of humor.
Serious question, I have been lubing the chain every 150 miles or so, is this too often or too little? All my riding is on-road, so no abrasive mud.
 

Laserman

Well travelled
Staff member
Location
Yuba City, CA
Serious question, I have been lubing the chain every 150 miles or so, is this too often or too little? All my riding is on-road, so no abrasive mud.
My opinion is that's about right, but it could be too much depending on what you use for lube. I lube my chain (O-ring-friendly spray wax) about as often, which comes to every 3 days or so. A heavier oil tends to fling off it's excess, and over-application of such is likely to make a mess! A well-lubed chain is a happy chain tho :D
 

modiorne

Well travelled
Location
Charlotte, NC
Lots of fun, lots of Sunday drivers, two did U turns in front of me, one loon came out strait in front of me and a TVR (sports car) decided that his racing line was on my side of the road :mad:. The Himmys brakes might not be up to GP standards, but they work hard when you grab a real fist full of lever.

Treat all other road users as if they were paid assassins out to get you, this includes pedestrians and lycra louts.
Don't recall if you have mentioned adding fog/aux lights - but I noted a striking diff in the drop of SMIDSY after I added the (very bright) aux lights to my bike. I see people do the double take, wait for me to roll by, instead of the pulling out in front of me, etc. They may still assassinate me, but not because they didn't see me ;) I still drive like they are out to get me, but I have noticed that I get noticed, now.

Glad those brakes work, and I agree, they work when you really need them.
 

madbiker

Well travelled
Location
United Kingdom
I assume you drilled out the cover yourself. Does it help the bike's breathing any? View attachment 5761
Yes, I also cut away the raised circular bit on the front of the air filter cover behind the side panel. I made these mods because I generally ride the bike in the summer when it is warm so these mods help to get get cooler air in to the air box. The bike seems more responsive since I have done it.
 
I'm not sure where to post this report. Over the past months I've installed a DNA air filter and their modified throat. I noted an increase in the intake roar from the improved airflow but not a great performance increase. I've also installed a TEC performance camshaft and more recently changed the front sprocket for a 16T. TEC, on their website and youtube video , claim that 100 mpg (UK) is probable. Well I can report that after a recent trip of over 300kms, my Himalayan returned 104 mpg (UK). I didn't run the bike flat out, maintaining highway posted speeds of 90 kms/per hour. My revs rarely exceeded 5000. I'm very pleased with results.
 

Andy131

Well travelled
Location
Manchester UK
So the stock seat felt like a plank with a nail in it after a couple of hours. So I bought the touring seat and went to work - OK it's only an hour away, but still a definite improvement, not exactly comfortable, more like the plank without the nail. I obviously have a bony *rse, but a well padded belly.
Getting on well with the Himmy, went out on Friday for a run to the seaside - 35 miles each way, 10 miles of 60mph dual carriageway and the rest interesting back country roads with lots of tight bends.
Going out on an Interceptor demo bike Wednesday while mine is in having the brakes checked mmmmm
 

Yangonnerd

Well travelled
Location
Kalaw, Myanmar
Yes, I also cut away the raised circular bit on the front of the air filter cover behind the side panel. I made these mods because I generally ride the bike in the summer when it is warm so these mods help to get get cooler air in to the air box. The bike seems more responsive since I have done it.
Any pics? or instructions? or a link maybe :D?
 

OldGuy

Well travelled
Location
Seattle,WA
Finally got it dirty!!! Did 40+ miles on a dirt/gravel road. Discovered that the suspension really needs some work - a lot of nut-busting pot holes, and it definitely needs softer shocks on both ends. My last dirt bike was a 80's era Suzuki motocross bike that had absolutely plush suspension compared to the Himmie.

I'll try thinner oil on the front first, but looking for input from anyone that's upgraded the front/rear shocks/springs. After today, I'm ok with shelling out a little cash to save my family jewels (even though I'm way past reproductive age).

OG
 

Robc76

Well travelled
Location
Uk
Hmmmmm.... I find the stock suspension absorbs bumps nicely on gravel roads. If it gets too bumpy I stand on the pegs. From what I've read on this forum the choice for aftermarket shocks and springs is limited with many people saying the stock shock is one of the best to be had at the moment.

RobC
 

Roy Gavin

Well travelled
Hitchcocks have softer springs for the forks at a sensible price, and cheap Ali Express 41 mm adjustable fork caps fit, to let you fine tune them.
They might have softer springs for the rear, or maybe they found reducing the preload works for them.
They are usually quite helpful , if you ask.
YSS forks springs are stiffer than stock, even at minimum preload, shock is adjustable but out of the box no better than stock.
 

RotorWrench

Well travelled
Location
USA
I'm not a big guy and my weight is around 160 and while I've found the suspension setup a little stiff with no gear, when my panniers are on and I'm offroad in exploring or camping mode I find the suspension just about right for me and my load, and that represents most of my riding.

On previous bikes I've put progressive springs in front and tuned with oil viscosity for pretty good results. Going to try the same on the Himmi. I really like progressive springs in front for a softer first few inches of travel but stiff enough deeper into the travel to help prevent bottoming out.

Saying that, I have no idea what the stock springs are in the Himmi. I think you're on the right track to go with a lighter viscosity oil up front and maybe try progressive springs, if the Himmi doesn't already have them.

Based solely on one ride, a friend's 22 model with the YSS rear didn't seem much different to me than stock, in agreement to RG's comment. But it is adjustable.
 
Top Bottom