Chain and sprockets

[sqeeezy]

Felt my transmission jerky recently and noticed tight spots, or should I say slack spots on my OEM chain approx 14,000km not been systematically maintained. When I split the link I found red dust, only 3 O-rings and one well distorted, so I fitted my spare chain with a freshly greased new link. One of the link pins was noticeably worn. None of my external lubing had got in there.
I suggest an amendment to the maintenance schedule, people. Split, clean, check, re-grease, if necessary replace your link. My old chain generally is not too bad, a tad slack at the rear sprocket bur no air, so it's good for an emergency replacement till I get home and order a real one. I reckon the chain was in tight mode when the link was on the sprockets and slack mode when in between because of the excessive pin wear.

 

[Kiwiscoot]

I had to replaced my OEM chain too at 15000 kms with a DID X-ring VX525 chain, even with a Tutoro chain oiler. My chain was doing exactly the same, tight when the link was on the sprocket and slack when not. A real PITA to adjust chain tension.
I found the same with the OEM master link having no grease inside, rust and the pins worn . I replaced the sprockets with Esjot sprockets (Caprimoto the cheapest I could find with shipping), front and rear, but on inspection the OEM sprockets seemed still fine. The oiler probably saved them and it was just the dry worn master-link that caused the issue.

Good advice for new owners to check the OEM master-link.

After this new chain and sprockets have worn out I might run the old sprockets and chain with a new master-link to get some more mileage out of it as it seems still pretty OK comparing it's length to the new chain.

 

[Wintrup]

Replaced the stock chain and front sprocket at 9K miles. The sprocket was shagged, as was the (pos) chain. Inside the casing was a mess of pooled road grime and oil, which I've WD40'd clean, and made a note to clean regularly to preserve the sprocket (and chain). After the shock of finding a barely tight sprocket, I fitted a Hitchcock's 14T and a DID chain. First time I've used a chain rivet tool, which was fiddly, but took my time and got the flares almost spot on, so pleased with that effort. The chain rivet tool was a Chinese Motion-Pro knockoff which looked pretty sturdy, but you never know. The good thing about it is that it has a ball bearing seat solidly and not a pin, which so many people manage to bend.

Took it out for a run to get feel of the 14T front sprocket and have to say I like it. Perfect for the hills and lanes where I live. I'll have to wait and see how it effects my MPG.

 

[sqeeezy]

Replaced the stock chain and front sprocket at 9K miles. The sprocket was shagged, as was the (pos) chain. Inside the casing was a mess of pooled road grime and oil, which I've WD40'd clean, and made a note to clean regularly to preserve the sprocket (and chain). After the shock of finding a barely tight sprocket, I fitted a Hitchcock's 14T and a DID chain. First time I've used a chain rivet tool, which was fiddly, but took my time and got the flares almost spot on, so pleased with that effort. The chain rivet tool was a Chinese Motion-Pro knockoff which looked pretty sturdy, but you never know. The good thing about it is that it has a ball bearing seat solidly and not a pin, which so many people manage to bend.

Took it out for a run to get feel of the 14T front sprocket and have to say I like it. Perfect for the hills and lanes where I live. I'll have to wait and see how it effects my MPG.

Very similar story to yours, except my OEM sprocket was ok, I just wanted better hill-climbing ability. I agree with you about the OEM chain, it should be ditched. My first time with an eBay chain rivet tool which i managed ok, like you, taking my time with it. My DID chain is doing well c/w Tutoro oiler which is good. Hopefully the team are taking note of the need to eyeball the front sprocket nut.

 

[Wintrup]

Very similar story to yours, except my OEM sprocket was ok, I just wanted better hill-climbing ability. I agree with you about the OEM chain, it should be ditched. My first time with an eBay chain rivet tool which i managed ok, like you, taking my time with it. My DID chain is doing well c/w Tutoro oiler which is good. Hopefully the team are taking note of the need to eyeball the front sprocket nut.

Yeah, I remembered your post when I was doing the job. Me too, in regards to hills. Like you wrote, and someone else on ADV, the Hima feels more "comfortable" with this sprocket. I'm not planning on any long motorway trips, so suits me fine.

(I'm giving in, in regards to the like button. Don't want to be thought of as some curmudgeon now. You can have me first like)

 

[Robert]

Was cleaning the bike and looking things over today, and I noticed that the front sprocket is beginning to show some wear. This is at 12.600 km.
Decided to turn the sprocket or replace it, to be decided when I had it out in the open. However, the bolt holding the sprocket in place is incredibly tight. I was expecting the bolt top be fairly loose, having read that some people find this bolt to be only hand tight. I even uses a steel tube that I keep for such purposes but to no avail. It resulted in bending the steel rod of the socket -wrench.
)I did check the thread and I am turning it the richt way round.)
So now I have to find a way to undo this bolt: any suggestions?

 

[caferider48]

So my new chain and sprocket set came in today. I ran out and picked them up as well as a throttle and clutch cable spares. Comparing the new and old sprockets I’m sure I could have just done a chain and ran them again it I needed to.
I got a new front tire mounted today while I was running around.... me thinks I should probably buy a car at some point, the tire was a bit of pain to haul around on my wife’s bike.
The rim and old tire as a back pack
View attachment 579
The rim with new tire as a backpack, when I went to pick it up it was a different guy from when dropped the tire off and he was confused how I was gonna carry it on the bike.
View attachment 580
And here’s a few photos of the sprockets and chain View attachment 581View attachment 582

No, that top worn sprocket is not good. Look at the curvature angle of the wear in the teeth, Definitely need to replace both countershaft and rear sprocket when adding a new chain, at least in the condition of that top sprocket.

 

[Morgan60]

Glad to hear you are replacing the sprockets as well as the chain. At 12k-15 that’s about right from my experience for new sprockets. Chains usually only last me only 7.5k.

 

[Roy Gavin]

Was cleaning the bike and looking things over today, and I noticed that the front sprocket is beginning to show some wear. This is at 12.600 km.
Decided to turn the sprocket or replace it, to be decided when I had it out in the open. However, the bolt holding the sprocket in place is incredibly tight. I was expecting the bolt top be fairly loose, having read that some people find this bolt to be only hand tight. I even uses a steel tube that I keep for such purposes but to no avail. It resulted in bending the steel rod of the socket -wrench.
)I did check the thread and I am turning it the richt way round.)
So now I have to find a way to undo this bolt: any suggestions?

The nut may have Loctite or similar on it which requires heat to about 180C to break it, and it is a normal thread, not left hand.
I have seen Pro mechanics break Loctite on nuts with a short application of heat from a Oxy torch.
The reason given for using the oxy was that it heated the nut fast before the heat was conducted away to perhaps sensitive components.
Not saying other heat sources won't work, but----!

 

[Bluestrom13]

The nut may have Loctite or similar on it which requires heat to about 180C to break it,

NOT Recommended. There's a rubber seal at the back of that sprocket.

So now I have to find a way to undo this bolt: any suggestions?

How were you holding the Gearbox spocket from turning? Wedge rear sprocket and chain with wooden block, and apply rear brake.
Cheap impact gun is what I use - 12volt battery operated.

 

[Roy Gavin]

I didn't say heat the sprocket, I said heat the nut quickly to 180C with Oxy before the heat gets further in.
"Rubber" seals are surprisingly resistant to heat and will not be damaged by 180C, even rubber cake trays are good for 250C, my tube of exhaust sealant is good for 300C and the seals on the exhaust valve probably experience more than that most of the time!
Did anyone mention the Tab washer behind the nut?

 

[Bluestrom13]

I appreciate what you're saying, Roy, but would be concerned because -
180c may break the loctite, but throw oxy/acet flame at that area, and how many people on here would know when to stop?
I think most would probably resort to a plumbers soldering gas gun, for lack of professional welding gear.

That tab washer washer is what I thought too, but thought it too obvious. But dafter things do happen.

 

[Robert]

Did not tinker on the bike the last few days, was out riding.
@Bluestrom: I sat on the bike with foot brake applied and that kept the rear wheel an d the chain and thus the front sprocket from turning. No complaints about the rear brake....
@ Roy: the tab washer behind the nut was duly flattened before the first attempt to undo the nut. With a nut that is torqued like this that tab washer is a waste of money...

I'll have to source someone with an impact gun, I'll let you know what happened.

 

[Bluestrom13]

Are you not losing some traction through 'crushing' the cush drive rubbers? You have to take up that 'slack' before you're loading the nut.??

 

[Robert]

I bent the half inch thick steel rod that I use to turn the socket. There may be some slack in the cush drive but nowhere near enough.

 

[caferider48]

I bent the half inch thick steel rod that I use to turn the socket. There may be some slack in the cush drive but nowhere near enough.

You either have pretty strong sockets or a weak 1/2" steel rod. (No puns intended)

 

[Robert]

Got the sprocket of the bike. My brother has two feet lengthening thing of high quality steel and together we got the nut undone.
The sprocket was not dramatically bad but I decided to replace it anyway. The chain and rear sprocket are still in good nick, so no need to replace those.
I noticed that the OEM sprocket has rubber rings on either side, held in place by steel pins that go through the sprocket. Never saw those before, I guess they are meant to dampen the noise? From the imprints on the rubber you can see that the outer parts of the chain run over it.

 

[Roy Gavin]

Was there any locking compound on the threads?
FWIW the nut on my 2017 bike was finger tight with no compound---!

 

[Robert]

Nope, no locking compound.
I remember seeing a thread here (from Jerk?) about that particular nut being finger tight and I was expecting the same to be true for my bike.
Well, it got a dab of copper grease and it is properly tightened with the tab washer nicely bent. So next time no nasty surprises.