Anyone using a oil thermometer?

Roy Gavin

Well travelled
Yep, 95 is about what my water cooled BMW F6560 Funduro ran at , and that was measured in the oil tank which formed part of the frame, with the dipstick thermometer at the headstock in full view.
So it would probably have been hotter in the sump where you are measuring it.
It rarely got any hotter though, even if I turned the wicK up a little , or on 40C + days, interesting to see how the Hima goes----------.
If you have a oil pressure gauge little need for a temp gauge too, once you get the oil over 100C the pressure seems to drop at the same speed as the temp rises!
The roller bearing crank on the Hima doesn't need much pressure, of course, the plain bearing crank on my Airheads need do!
 

Eatmore Mudd

Moderator
Staff member
Don't forget to check calibration. Fill bucket with ice, add water to brim, put in sender and stir continuously for five minutes minimum. It should read 0* C /+2
Allow sender to normalize to room temperature. Put in boiling water. Should read 100* C at sea level. Consult altitude correction charts for calibration checks in the Himalayas.

Synthetic oil is marvelous.
 

sam2019

Well travelled
Don't forget to check calibration. Fill bucket with ice, add water to brim, put in sender and stir continuously for five minutes minimum. It should read 0* C /+2
Allow sender to normalize to room temperature. Put in boiling water. Should read 100* C at sea level. Consult altitude correction charts for calibration checks in the Himalayas.

Synthetic oil is marvelous.
good idea, except there is nothing on the instrument to calibrate it by. No adjustment screw. It seems to be quite acurate though and in any case I am not so much interested in absolute values, more in sudden changes should the engine/piston develop a problem at high speed/endurance testing.

also: it starts at 50, not at zero. look at the pics.
 

sam2019

Well travelled
How do you know it's accurate?
Did you verify it's reading against a known good instrument?
no, but 95 at this driving level seems quite correct. but as I said, I am not much interested in absolut values, only in sudden changes that indicate overheating.
thats why I opted against a dip stick which is out of visual range while driving and can only be observed when you stop the bike.
I have a second instrument so if people are terribly interested I could do the cooking water test.
I also have a kitchen oven with a thermometer inside which I could use for calibration (that may be of questionable accuracy though, its a cheap thing)
 

sam2019

Well travelled
So the sender was threaded 10mm metric, not BSP?
12 mm metric to BSP are easy to find, I have used them to fit oil pressure gauges to my airheads as all the twin senders I could find had a BSP thread.
Getting one with a 45 degree bend so the sender missed the frame tube was a bit harder, if any airhead owners are reading!
Finally got around to use the micrometer on the threads, hopefully this is what you where looking for:

20200301_104651.jpg

20200301_104453.jpg
 

hoschimei

Getting there...
Have you guys thought about some of the other screws that are at the motor in the lower area — can we use them to insert the sensor?
I have no idea if theres room inside and oil floating there, did not go that deep into the motor sphere yet.

Front view, motor bottom, behind the skid plate:
1426

Below the oil pipe:
1427

a wider view of the same section:
1428

Just a picture of the regular oil removal area with the screw ... I would like to keep that, so I can use a magnetic screw to collect iron particle inside:
1429

What do you say Gunnar?
 
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